squires



(No Model.) 3 Sheets- Sheet 1.

- J. SQUIRES.

METHOD OF MAKING APPAREL OOLLARS.

110,415,071. Patented Nov. 12, 1889.

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(No Model.) 3 SheetS -Sheet 2.

J. SQUIRES. METHOD OF MAKING APPAREL GOLLARS.

No. 415,071. Patented Nov. 12, 1889.

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JOHN SQUIRES, or rnov, NEW YORK, A's'sieifion TO SANFORD a ROBINSON,

or SAME PLACE.

METHOD OF MAKING APPAREL-COLLARS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 415,071, dated November 12, .1889.

Application filed February 18, 1889. Serial No. 300,307. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that 1, JOHN SQUIRES, of the city ofTroy, county of Rensselaer, and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Apparel-Collars, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to certain improvements in the manufacture of apparel-collars; and my invention has for its object the pro- IO duction in the collar of a pendent tab that is adapted to cover the back button-hole and the button when used thereat, and at the same time to act as a stay to receive the eravat or tie, and to keep the latter from slipping up on the outer face of the collar.

As heretofore produced, tabs have been made by cutting angular notches in the outer collar-facing, with the points of the angular notches so produced projected downward,

with these tabs so formedlocated in that part of the collar which would be at the neck sides of the wearer. As thus applied these tabs would have the tendency to project outwardly, to turn up, and to appear unsightly; but by 10- eating a single tab at the back, where the collar curves more than at the sides when worn,

the tab bends transversely with the collar and is kept in place'better; owing to the different location. Where tabs are cut from the outer 0 facing and arranged with their angular'parts extended downwardly, there is no way of sewing the angular raw edges of the fabric to give a good finish. I am enabled to overcome all of which difficulties by my improved 3 5 method of locating, cutting, and securing the parts, as will be hereinafter set forth.

Accompanying this specification to form a part of it there are three sheets of drawings,

containing nine figures illustrating myinveno tion,with the same designation of parts by letter-reference used in all of them.v

Of these illustrations, Figure l is a plan view of what is the outer facing of the collar when the latter is worn, and showing this fac- 5 ing as having formed in itslower edge, centrally from the ends, a downwardly-projected tab-form part produced by two scallops or recesses cut from the bottom of said facing-edge, with one of them at each side of said tab-form part. Fig. 2 shows a plan view of a spiderform piece of fabric cut to have on its bottom edge the form of the tab-form part and scallops of the outer facing of the collar, and upon its sides being made with securing-strips adapted to be sewed to the outer side edges of the scallops, said spider-form piece having also a flap part formed above its transverse center,- adapted to be folded down and to be secured to the facing where subtending the side edges of the scallops. Fig. 3 shows a plan view of the facing shown at Fig. 1, having beneath it a tab-ply indicated by a dotted line, and above the said facing the spider-form piece laid to have its lower edges coincident with those of the tab-for1n part and the scallops of the facing, and a row of stitches connecting the lower edges of said tab-ply, the lower edges of the tab-form part and scallops of the facing, and the lower and side edges of the spider-form piece, Fig. 4 shows a plan view of the parts illustrated as turned after having been sewed as shown at Fig. 3. Fig.

5 shows a section of the parts taken on the line 00 0c of Fig. 4. Fig. 6 shows the inner face of what is the outer facing of the collar when worn, with the top part of the spiderform piece turned down and sewed to the facing where subtending the scallops at each side of the tab-form part. Fig. 7 shows a plan view of the inner facing of the collar and that which is next to the person of the wearer.. Fig. 8 is a perspective of the completed collar, and Fig. 9 is a section taken on the line 50 x of 8.

The several parts of the collar thus illustrated are designated by letter-reference, and the function and connection of the parts are described as follows:

The letter F designates the outer facing of the collar, and F the inner facing and that 9c which is next to the person of the wearer. The outer facing F is made with the scallops D cut from the lower edge thereof at each side of the center, so as to produce the tabform part T. h

The letter S designates a spider-form piece of fabric having a central tab-form part T and a scallop each side of the latter, (indicated at S with the securing-strips I at each side thereof. 1 0o The letter P designates the tab-ply.

The letter L designates a tur11-down flap formed upon the spider-form part above its transverse center, and the letter B indicates the back button-hole.

The parts thus cut and shaped are connected by placing over the tab-ply P the outer facing F and above the latter the spider-form piece S; then sewing together these parts on their bottom edges, as indicated at d, Fig. 3; then turning the tab-form part so as to bring the parts into the position indicated at Fig. 4; then turning down the flap L of the spiderform part S and sewing it at (l to the outer facing F on its inner side; then turning in the side, bottom, and end edges of the two facings F F and sewing them at (F, with the button-hole B produced in the flap part L, and the inner facing F where beneath the pendent" tab T. As thus made there are no raw edges upon the tab which covers the back button, and the tab as cut and connected is secured at the corners where downwardlyextended from the collar-facing, and being located at the back of the collar where the bend of the collar is more abrupt than at the sides. As the collar bends the tab from its location bends transversely, so as to be kept in a vertical position, and is not inclined to turn up.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

The method of producing a button-hole tab in the back of a collar, consisting in cut ting the scallops D in the lower edge of the outer facing so as to leave the intermediate centrally-located tab T, cutting the spiderform piece S to coincide on its lower edge with the scallops and tab of the facing, and to have the flap part L, sewing the lower and side edges of the spider-form piece to the edges of the tab and scallops, then turning the sewed parts thereat so as to bring the raw edges interiorly, turning down the flap part L, and scwin g the same to the facing where subtending the scallops, uniting the edges of the outside and inside facings of the collar,

substantially as shown and described.

Signed at Troy, New York, this 30th day of July, 1888, in the presence of the two witnesses whose names are hereto written.

JOHN SQUIREJ. \Vitnesses:

W. E. HAGAN, CHARLES S. BRINTNALL. 

